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In traditional dives, taste often surpasses style. Café Habana is no exception. The cramped quarters in this Cuban-Mexican eatery, located on a residential corner off Elizabeth Street, may scare away patrons desiring cushy seating and quiet conversation. But the perfectly seasoned roasted pork, grilled steaks and sautéed chicken makes this café a delicious dining destination. The Mexican-style grilled corn, a gooey mixture of fresh corn topped with chili powder, melted cheese and lime, is a crowd-pleasing, albeit messy, delight that comes with a cup of individually wrapped toothpicks. Follow the corn with the marinated skirt steak with rice and beans, and a mojito, and soon you'll forget all about the sardine-like setup. — Joy Armstrong

The space is tiny, so prepare yourself for at least a half-hour wait to be seated. Once you make it inside, settle in and try not to move until after the meal. Otherwise, you'll bump the waitstaff.

Cuban sandwich, $7; pollo mirador, $12.25; mango and jicama salad, $8.65

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