Profile

For years, cabs full of Williamsburg-bound gastronomes were ineluctably drawn to Peter Luger's, but nowadays, there's much more South Side culinary competition. First came the artfully rehabbed Diner and Marlow and Sons, now, the elegant Dressler takes up residence, as well. The seasonal American restaurant, named for the title character of Steven Millhauser's Pulitzer-winning historical novel, is the third (and most ambitious) local venture for Colin Devlin, owner of DuMont and its casual spinoff, DuMont Burger. Devlin hired Brooklyn artisans to build Dressler's quirky iron chandeliers, light-box screens, and zinc bar, and with the larger room and budget come a bigger wine list and a more extensive, more upscale menu courtesy of DuMont chef Polo Dobkin. But to placate neighbors wary of higher prices (and unmoved by entrées like roasted duck breast and braised leg with duck crepinette), Devlin shrewdly offers DuMont's famous burger on the bar menu. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Roasted duck breast and braised leg with duck crepinette, $25

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Gael Greene's Full Review (6/12/06)

Featured In

• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• Restaurant Openings: Frankies Spuntino, Megu Midtown, Dirty Bird To-Go, Dressler (4/24/06)